Many visitors to the Western Isles of Scotland must cross over the Connell Bridge, spanning the waters where Loch Etive joins the open sea. Looking down upon the early morning scene of small boats sailing into the loch, travellers are probably unaware of Strumhor (pronounced Stru-var), the monster lurking in the depths beneath their feet. The waters may look placid but Strumhor is waiting for his wake up call. Strumhor or ‘big current’is a tidal fault formed when the level of water in Loch Etive is greater than that of the open sea. Suddenly the water surges forward and foaming rapids are formed causing havoc to any boat or diver who may be there at the time.

 

 

Trippers leaving the small village of Connell behind and heading towards the ferry port of Oban, cannot help but be inspired by the picturesque views along the water’s edge. Distant mountains, multi coloured foliage and blue seas merge into one. In the early morning light, just like Strumhor, the little town of Oban is awakening from its sleep. All of the action is taking place down by the harbour as the fishing fleet unload their evening catch. Pulleys squeal, crates bang onto the harbour wall and gulls wheel overhead seeking left over scraps. The tangy smell of the sea is in the air and brightly coloured sailboats bob about on the calm waters of the Firth of Lorne.

 

 

Shutters squeak, cups rattle and the town awakes as shopkeepers and café owners open up for another days work. Cars stream into town like a convoy of little ants, heading towards the port, ready to board the huge ferries that will transport them to the islands of Mull, Iona, Barra and South Uist. The beautiful island of Mull rises out of crystal clear blue water surrounded by sugar white beaches, reaching the pinnacle of Ben More, 3000 feet above sea level.

 

 

The most famous town on the island is its capital, Tobermory, where the children’s TV programme, Balamory, was filmed.

 

 

Mull is also home to a great variety of wildlife including protected eagles that swoop and glide over the sea, as well as colonies of sleek otters that dive and swim in the cool waters. The waters surrounding the island are also filled with dolphins, whales and sharks.

 

 

The small island of Iona, on the other hand, is visited for its links with Christianity, being the place where St. Columba first landed after leaving Irish shores in 56AD.

 

 

Being situated in a sheltered spot by the shores of the sea, Oban started its life as a small fishing and trading village but expanded rapidly with the arrival of the great steamships of the Victorian era. Then the arrival of the railway in 1880 further confirmed Oban’s status as a Scottish place to visit. The most prominent landmark in Oban is that of McCaig’s Tower or Folly. The look-alike Colosseum stands high above the town and was meant to provide work for the local people during a time of immense unemployment as well as being a lasting monument to the McCaig family. John Stewart McCaig, a local banker, commissioned the building in 1897 and it was originally designed to have a huge tower in the middle and statues of family members placed into niches built into the surrounding walls. McCaig was so passionate about the project that he left provision in his will that the Tower be finished after his death. However, after his untimely passing just three years later, his sister successfully contested the will and the tower remained in its present state. The two most stunning aspects of McCaig’s Tower are the public gardens to be found there and the spectacular views of Oban and the surrounding countryside. Many photographers and painters use the scenes viewed from here for their work.

 

 

By lunchtime, back in Connell, Strumhor has awakened and the watery current is swirling round and round drawing anything in its path towards the huge pillars of the bridge. No boats venture out at this time of day. Meanwhile, Oban has also become a bustling hive of activity with tourists and locals mingling in the shops, coffee houses and down by the harbour. The ferryboat has arrived and people stream off heading in all directions. Some are visitors returning from the Isles, others are islanders making a shopping trip to the mainland and yet others may be lawyers or teachers who work on the islands.

 

 

Being situated by the shores of the sea it is not surprising to find eco tours taking visitors out onto the open waters to view the surrounding wildlife in their natural environment. Whale watching is a popular activity as is a visit to a seal colony. By early evening, the frenzy of people in and around Oban and its harbour is beginning to disperse. The few last day-trippers find a place to eat in one of the many excellent restaurants before heading home and visiting tourists return to their hotels. As the sun descends behind the hills, the sky becomes a myriad of yellow, red and orange hues and the fishing fleet sets sail hoping for another good catch. The ferries have gone and silence descends on the harbour.

 

 

After a day of activity, Strumhor, too, is beginning to retreat into his watery bed leaving behind a calm and placid sea. Returning visitors pass back over the bridge still unaware of the monster beneath their feet. If you are lucky enough to travel this path, be sure to watch out for Strumhor, the little known monster that resides beneath the bridge.